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An October Day in Monterey
Ever since reading John Steinbeck's Cannery Row
in my late-teens, Monterey has had a special hold on me. Sure, a lot
has changed since I first visited Monterey 25 years ago, but much
remains the same: Harbor
seals basking on the beach. Sea birds gliding effortlessly overhead.
Giant waves crashing against ancient sea rocks. And that
intoxicating fishy smell that gives your primordial brain the clear message
that you're at the right place.
One thing, however, was distinctly different for me this time. I was
exploring Monterey, Pacific Grove, and the awe-inspiring coastline
from the seat of my bike. My only question was, "Why hadn't I done this
before?"It's Saturday. It's Sunny. What am I Waiting For?
The last time I had work in the Bay Area I was located up north. This time around I'm staying in Fremont, a mere 80 miles from Monterey. It's Saturday, late-October, and the weather is perfect. I quickly get dressed, pack a lunch, grab a quick breakfast, stuff my bike and gear in the car and head out. By 9:30 I'm in Monterey. My first stop is the visitors center on Camino el Estero and Del Monte Avenue, right across from Monterey Bay Park. Here I pick up a street map of Monterey, as well as a free Monterey County bike map, and get some tips on where to find free parking. The staff can also help with hotel accommodations, camping options, current events and more.
That it's October
doesn't mean that the crowds are gone; Monterey, with all it has to
offer is a busy place. I
begin biking at Monterey Bay Park, going west on the Monterey Bike Trail (for online maps of the trail click here and here). The first part of my journey takes me along the Marina, past
Fisherman's Wharf (a bit too touristy for my taste), past Monterey State Historic Park (lots of museums and historic buildings at the park if you need a fix
of history), and within a half block of Cannery Row and
Monterey's crown jewel: the aquarium.
If you've never experienced this place you gotta go. Even if you've
visited every other aquarium in North America. The Monterey
Bay Aquarium, pricey to be sure, is nothing short of mesmerizing. Bike
racks are conveniently located near the entrance.
As I continue west, the crowds begin to thin, and the scenery kicks it up a notch. To my left is the Point Pinos Lighthouse. To my right the bay gives way to expansive ocean vistas. And the pedestrian/bike path is replaced by a generous bike lane along Ocean View Boulevard. The bike trail takes me on Sunset Drive, right next to Asilomar State Beach. I take a short break to play in the sand. Following the bike route signs I pass the entrance gate to 17 Mile Drive. Cars have to pay $5 to get on this scenic stretch, so I'm feeling pretty smug as I zoom by the autos queued up to pay their sin tax for not having the good sense to ride a bike.
The bike lane peters out just past Seal Rock so I give my lungs a work-out as I climb up Stevenson Drive. The houses along Stevenson are big...and the ocean views these folks get from their deck! I'm not a golfer but even I've heard of Pebble Beach. Riders have plenty of chances to see why this area is renowned for their golf courses.
Shortly after Pebble Beach Lodge there's a sign that warns bikers that the road narrows. It's the weekend, and traffic is heavy, so I decide this is a good place to turn around and head back. About half way back I find a picnic table that looks lonely so I stop and have a late lunch. Monster waves crash on sea rocks just offshore. Why eat in a restaurant when you can have that for a backdrop!
I'm back at my car, relaxed, contented, and ready for an eagerly anticipated side trip.
My Mission in Carmel
The Spanish conquistadors and friars did a number on the indigenous people in the Americas. I can almost (almost) forgive them when I'm standing in front of one of their missions. And the Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo (Carmel Mission) is one of my favorites. That it is only a few miles from Monterey, and that it's a National Historic Landmark, make it a deservedly popular stop for tourists. Founded in 1770 by Father Junipero Serra, it went through various ebbs and flows through the years, including a sacking by the French privateer Bouchard in 1818. Today it's an active Roman Catholic parish church. A wedding had just ended when I arrived -- you can see the lucky bride to the left in the picture on the right. The wedding party left me in peace as I wandered in and around the
compound.
Even in October the flowers were in bloom...and begging attention. As
usual (don't ask me why) I gravitated to the windows. If you go to the mission you may want to drop into artsy Carmel-by-the-Sea, if for no other reason than you can say you went to a place with such a mouth-watering name. (Clint Eastwood, by the way, was the town's mayor from 1986 until 1988.) Or if you haven't had enough sea breeze, sand and serenity, you can continue down the coast to Point Lobos, where years ago I took maybe the best photo of my life. Or on to Big Sur, about 24 miles from the mission. In years past my wife and I have camped and hiked in a number of the state parks along this stretch, including Andrew Molera, Pfeiffer-Big Sur and Julia Pfeiffer Burns. They're all great fun, especially if you can visit during the shoulder seasons.
Well, that was my October Day in Monterey. The next time I go I can guarantee one thing: I'll have my folding bike in the trunk!